The nose opens with the fresh ripeness of yellow apple and highlights of Granny Smith. It has beautifully subtle autolysis on the palate, deepening into notes of creamy apple crumble, Golden Delicious and Mirabelle plum, while remaining utterly strait-laced. Elegance, length and absolute freshness are inherent and quietly convincing.

A spine of chiseled acidity structures this vivid, creamy Champagne, which has a minerally underpinning of smoke and brine and flavors of Asian pear, baked pineapple, lemon curd, toasted brioche and roasted almond. Should pair well with grilled fish.

With a base from 2018, the NV Champagne Grande Reserve Brut pours a bright straw hue and lifts from the glass with pure and inviting aromas of white peach, fresh flowers, and wet stone. Medium-bodied, with a fresh lift on the palate, a fresh pillowy mousse, and a delicate saline finish, this is a wonderful calling card for the freshness of the house style.

This has attractive aromas of apricots, pie crust, raspberries, fresh walnuts and pears, with a hint of white pepper and ginger. Elegant, fine and supple mousse, with a medium body and creamy layers of fresh fruit and pastries. So dry and clean.

The citrus-colored NV Grande Réserve Brut--a blend of Chardonnay (45%), Pinot Noir (45%) and Pinot Meunier (10%)--shows an intense, ripe and aromatic yet vinous bouquet with white and delicate red fruit, floral, brioche and nutty expressions. Full-bodied, dry and very fresh, this is a firm, complex, finessed, fruity, round and stimulating cuvée with a good, tight and slightly salty finish. An excellent aperitif and wine for starters.