I love the way this sophisticated Moulin-a-Vent marries the bright red fruit you expect from Beaujolais with savory character and a warm, tannin base that enables it to turn the bright acidity of the gamay grape into a major asset. Long, complex finish with depth and energy in near-perfect balance. Drink or hold.

The 2020 Moulin-à-Vent is both the richest and the most refined of the three generic bottlings from the Château des Jacques, revealing aromas of cherries, smoky berries, spices and orange rind, followed by a medium to full-bodied, ample and velvety palate with lively acids and powdery structuring tannins. It's largely derived from lieu-dit Rochegrès.

A well-packed red, with a gamy note weaving throughout macerated cherry and plum flavors. Revealing subtle fruitcake spice, red tea and licorice notes, the plush palate is powered by chalky mineral and plush yet focused tannins.